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In with the Madding Crowds - Manila is a chaotic maelstrom of Spanish, American and Asian influences

IN WITH THE MADDING CROWDS

Words: Carren Jao    

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Manila is a chaotic maelstrom of Spanish, American and Asian influences and top-flight gourmet, artistic and design offerings

Narrow, winding streets, a constant flurry of pedestrians and a cacophony of commuting noise – for the uninitiated, Manila can be a baffling city. But that very chaos also engenders a wellspring of creativity. The second most devastated city during the Second World War (Warsaw being the first), Manila – once called the “Paris of Asia” – now seems to be a phoenix rising from the ashes, thanks to three years of robust economic growth and an influx of Filipino citizens returning to its shores. The result is an increasingly sophisticated metropolis that remixes its more than three centuries of Spanish colonial rule, almost half a century of American occupation and constant inflow of Asian influences.

Istanbul tram
Prayers at Ortoköy Mosque

Left to right:Popular restaurant Mecha Uma; the delicate touch of chef Bruce Ricketts at Mecha Uma, impromptu performance at The Four Strings

Amid mom-and-pop shops offering a quick meal and humble surroundings, a new crop of outlets is taking root offering a holistic experience elevated by design. “Owners and customers are slowly seeing the value of good design and they invest in it,” says Dan Matutina, a graphic designer who cultivates an international career working with companies halfway around the world, such as Fast Company, Wired and Wall Street Journal. He also co-founded design company Plus 63. He’s discovered that young startups are just as willing to invest in their brand identities and interiors as much as their product. Encouragingly, these shops aren’t foreign imports, but local businesses that have found inspiration in the city’s zeitgeist. They’re all over the city. “There’s a lot of new and independent shops that are opening up in different places in the Metro,” says Matutina. “It’s quite cool because everything is decentralised.”

Camouflaged between a Shell gas station and a Kamayan eatery along the Greenhills section of the EDSA major thoroughfare is EDSA Beverage Design Group (EDSA BDG). No gleaming sign greets guests upon entrance. Instead, like a speakeasy only open to those in the know, a simple cement stamping discreetly informs you you’ve arrived. The space has a lofty, masculine feel with tall ceilings and aged furniture. Part laboratory, part coffee shop, EDSA BDG transforms into a bar as the sun sets. Baristas talk like sommeliers about the latest coffee brew, booze or concoction formulated right on the premises.

Owners and customers are slowly seeing the value of good design and they want to invest in it

EDSA BDG is part of a growing legion of well-designed, third-wave coffee shops, weaning residents from their daily Nescafé or Starbucks habit. Others have made a home in Legaspi Village in Makati, the city’s central business district, just around the corner from Raffles Makati. Young professionals make their way at all hours to the Curator, hidden behind wine store Cyrano. This hole-in-the-wall harbours a similar Jekyll-and-Hyde persona as EDSA BDG, dealing caffeine by day and cocktails by night. Just a stone’s throw away, in an anonymous concrete building in front of a boxing gym, Yardstick boasts a more upbeat appearance. Splashes of colour intersperse with a light wood interior and large windows infuse this café, known for its 12-hour brews and tasting sessions, with a Scandinavian feel.

Clockwise from top left:the Twelfth House boutique at Cubao X; carved wooden door at St Augustine's Church; get around by Bambike; hip Makati bistro Your Local; all things uke at The Four Strings; a city park; barista Mike Simangan at EDSA Beverage Design Group

In a city that delights in its secrets, Yardstick has a rather large one. A hulking steel door at the back of the café leads visitors to Your Local, which has become the neighborhood’s go-to bistro, serving delightful twists to Southeast Asian favourites such as ox tongue curry buns served with Japanese curry and its stellar torched salmon donburi, a buttery concoction that slides pleasantly down one’s throat.

Your Local’s brand of cuisine, which straddles East and West, marks the ease with which Filipinos navigate global culture. Nowhere is this more evident than its food courts and food markets, which offer the taste of all corners of the world within a few square feet. At Century City Mall, its Hole in the Wall food court evokes a cosmopolitan air with interiors that run the gamut from antler- chandeliered rustic to metallic steampunk. Its stalls offer velvety Japanese cheescake (Green Cheese), American DIY cookie creations with milk pairings (Scout’s Honor), San Francisco Mission Street-inspired Chinese food (Kwong’s Provisions) and fried chicken plates with prepared with umami spices (Bad Bird), among many.

Your Local’s brand of cuisine, which straddles East and West, marks the ease with which Filipinos navigate global culture

Behind grungy steel gates, Z Compound on Malingap Street along Magingawa Street in Quezon City offers a down-home, street-style version of this foodie experience. Its stalls showcase Lebanese fare (Meshwe), barbecue dishes with beer on the side (BBQ Zone) and a regional deep-fried pork belly specialty (Bagneto), among many. At nearby Cubao X, a hub of novelty shops, galleries and bars gives visitors a taste of a truly Bohemian lifestyle. Dreamcatchers at Reading Room, ukelele lessons from The Four Strings and surfer implements courtesy of Coast Thru Life express the compound’s freewheeling philosophy.

Left to right:eating out at Z Compound; Your Local, the go-to bistro for beef redang buns; Jaime Reyes Roque exhibition at 1335Mabini in Old Manila

The feast doesn’t confine itself to the gastronomic. Pinto Art Museum, situated atop the hills of Antipolo, offers a serene sanctuary and one of the best collections of Filipino contemporary art within reach of the city. The Spanish-style compound seems like an enchanting maze filled with Filipino artistic treasures from lauded artists such as Daniel de la Cruz, Leeroy New and Pam Yan Santos. World-class contemporary work can also be found at in Makati’s Silverlens Gallery and Drawing Gallery (both of which have outposts in Singapore’s Gillman Barracks), Quezon City’s Blanc and West Gallery.

Only two years old, 1335Mabini in Old Manila has proven itself to be the epicentre of contemporary art in the neighborhood, says Celdran. Equipped with two gallery spaces and an antique store on the second floor, the space regularly entices artists and celebrities to its exhibitions featuring local and foreign artists. Not to be left behind, the country’s local gustatory offerings have also found a second life. La Cocina de Tita Moning, the Legarda ancestral home, offers a taste of life as landed gentry at the turn of the 19th century. Their heirloom menu consists of signature dishes such as oxtail stew, baked fish and bread pudding.

Not to be left behind, the country’s gustatory offerings have also found a second life

A more modern take on the Filipino palate comes by way of Purple Yam, an outpost of the Brooklyn-based establishment run by Amy Besa and Romy Dorotan. Named after the sweet tuber prevalent in Filipino food, Purple Yam, which only seats about 20, re-invigorates the cuisine by culling techniques from all regions of the country.

High Street Address Telephone Email/Website
Mudo Teşvikiye Caddesi No 149, Nişantaşı +212 444 6836 www.mudo.com.tr
Yargici Zorlu Center, Levazim Mah, Koru Sok, No 2, 34340 +212 353 6058 www.yargici.com.tr
Mavi jeans Zorlu Center, Levazim Mah, Koru Sok, No 2, 34340 +212 353 6231 www.mavi.com
Machka Abdi İpekçi Caddesi Maltepe Apt No 44/2, Nişantaşı 212 219 1936 www.machka.com.tr
Hotiç Zorlu Center, Levazim Mah, Koru Sok, No 2, 34340 +212 353 6514 www.hotic.com.tr
Koton Zorlu Center, Levazim Mah, Koru Sok, No 2, 34340 +212 353 6662 www.koton.com.tr
Ipekyol Zorlu Center, Levazim Mah, Koru Sok, No 2, 34340 +212 353 6707 www.ipekyol.com.tr
Boutiques Address Telephone Email/Website
Midnight Express Küçük Bebek Cad No 3/A +212 263 2111 www.midnightexpress.com.tr
Beymen (especially Turkish accessory and jewellery brands) Zorlu Center, Istiniye Park +212 306 3300 www.beymen.com
V2K Abdi İpekçi Caddesi No 29, Nişantaşı +212 219 9498 www.shop.vakko.com/tr/v2k
Brandroom Abdi İpekçi Caddesi Polat Palas No 63 +212 241 6049 www.brandroom.com.tr/
Bilstore Meşrutiyet Caddesi No 90, Beyoğlu +212 245 9020 www.bilstore.com/
Individual Designers Address Telephone Email/Website
Janucha by Jale Hürdogan Ihlamuryolu Sokak, Fargo Apt No 24/A, Topagaci, Nişantaşı +212 240 8854 www.janucha.com
Hakaan Yildirim, Hakaan Beyman Büyükdere Caddesi No 185, Kanyon Alypverip, Merkezi +212 319 1155 www.houseofhakaan.com
Section Mode Unique Serdar-i Ekrem Sokak No 10, Galata www.facebook.com/SectionModeUnique
Les Benjamins Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi No 26, Ali Hoca Sokak +212 243 7695 www.lesbenjamins.com
Zeynep Erdoǧan Şakayik Sokak, 41/2 Durusay Apt, Teşvikiye +212 233 1080 www.zeyneperdogan.com
Gulçin Çengel 6 Gazeteciler Sitesi Menekse Sokak No 55, Akatlar www.gulcincengel.com
Aslı Filinta Abdi İpekçi Caddesi No 29, Nişantaşı +212 219 9498 www.aslifilinta.com/
Ece Gözen Meşrutiyet Caddesi No 90, Beyoğlu +212 245 9000 www.ecegozen.com
 orwww.bilstore.com
Mehtap Elaidi Beymen İstinye Park +212 306 3300 www.mehtapelaidi.com/
Zeynep Tosun Zeynep Tosun Yeşerti Sok Hayat Apt No 17 D 10. Beşiktaş >+212 352 0156 www.zeyneptosun.com
Hande Çokrak (Maid in Love) www.365ist.com www.maidinlove.com/
Burçe Bekrek Kadırgalar Cad Açık Hava Apt No 16 D 1, Şişli +212 234 1846 www.burcebekrek.com/
Liana Kesenci Balatt Beyman Zorlu Center www.balatt.com
Meltem Özbek Buy online at www.trendyol.com www.meltemozbek.com
La Plage Beachwear info@laplagebeachwear.com www.laplagebeachwear.com
La Dolce Passione underwear Harvey Nichols, Büyükdere Caddesi No 185 Kanyon Alypverip, Merkezi +212 319 1100 www.ladolcepassione.com
Couture Address Telephone Email/Website
Dilek Hanif Macka Caddesi No 37/2, Teşvikiye +212 219 3730 www.dilekhanif.com
Zeynep Tosun Akmerkez, Nispetiye Caddesi, Etiler +212 352 0156 www.zeyneptosun.com
Dice Kayek Harvey Nichols, Büyükdere Caddesi No 185 Kanyon Alypverip, Merkezi +212 319 1155 www.dicekayek.com
Begüm Salihoğlu www.365ist.com +212 287 3682 www.begumsalihoglu.com
Restaurant Address Telephone Email/Website
Ravi, Al Satwa Al Dhiyafa Rd, Dubai +971 4 331 5353
The Majlis Cafe Jumeirah Beach Road, Dubai +971 4 353 6666 www.themajlisdubai.com
Bu Qtair Eatery 4 D Street, Dubai +971 55 705 2130
Khan Murjan Restaurant WAFI, Ground Floor, Oud Metha Road, PO Box 721, Dubai +971 4 327 9795 www.wafi.com/shopping-in-dubai/shop/khan-murjan-restaurant/257
Tomo Restaurant Exit 56, Dubai +971 4 357 7888 www.torno.ae
Qbara Sheikh Rashid Rd, Dubai +971 4 7092500 www.qbara.ae
Raffles Dubai Restaurants Sheikh Zayec Road, Wafi, Dubai
PO Box 1218OO
+971 4 324 8888 dining.dubai@raffles.com

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