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Raffles 1887

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MY ISTANBUL

Şebnem Çapa, Turkish fashion designer

ŞEBNEM ÇAPA is the owner of Chez-Bo, a clothing workshop in Çukurcuma she founded 18 years ago to create her own designs. A keen traveller, she is always glad to return to her ‘beloved Istanbul’ where she lives with her husband, daughter and son. Here she describes what makes the Turkish capital so special to her.

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NO matter where I go, or how long I stay, the place I miss the most and look forward to returning to is my beloved Istanbul. I love it with a passion that is difficult to explain if you’ve never experienced it.

Istanbul is a city of miracles and surprises, where modernism and mysticism co-exist, with its hassle and chaos, and where ethnically diverse people live. It’s a mega city, with a population larger than that of many European countries. Watching the Bosphorus and Dolmabahçe from my own terrace – a bird’s-eye view – in the early morning, hearing the sounds of nature mixed with the cries of seagulls, gives me a special peace of mind.

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Istanbul is a great city for shopping. You will find all of the world's top fashion designers here. In addition, we have our own highly successful Turkish designers. Look out for local fashion designers’ collections around Nişantaşı, Bebek and the Çukurcuma area where my workshop is. There are also great options for antique lovers in Çukurcuma.

If you’re new to Istanbul you will want to see Sultanahmet Square, Topkapı Palace and Hagia Sophia. The Basilica Cistern, especially at night, is another amazing experience. The renovated Atatürk Cultural Centre is just steps away from my house and we were very happy to be reunited with it when it reopened. It is a unique place with its concerts, areas to eat and drink, cultural activities, special exhibitions and mini library.

I love the hammam experience, the traditional Turkish ritual. Raffles Spa and Hürrem Sultan Hammam, between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia Museum, are authentic hammams worth visiting. And of course no trip to Istanbul is complete without a boat trip on the Bosphorus, listening to the stories about the historic mansions by the sea.

Destination Istanbul - Türkiye
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This is also a city for eating out. During the day I love Gizia Brasserie in Nişantaşı, Cuma Café in Çukurcuma, and Sunday brunch at Raffles Istanbul. As for the evening, in my opinion the best Turkish restaurant is Seraf. For kebabs I like Kebapçı in Etiler, which also serves the best lahmacun [flatbread topped with spicy mincemeat] I have ever had. Bebek Balıkçı is a pleasant choice for enjoying fish by the Bosphorus; Sakhalin has opened in the Zorlu Center near Raffles; Roka at Galata Port is perfect for lovers of far-eastern cuisine; Duble Meze Bar is great for appetisers and nostalgic music. I also enjoy the Roof Bar at Bebek Hotel in Bebek, and nearby Lucca; while Zula, close to Taksim Square, has the most amazing burgers with a taste that I cannot find even abroad.

Taksim, Istanbul - Turkey November 15 2023: New Ataturk Cultural Center (AKM) building exterior view

Over the years, I’ve come across a number of people in Istanbul who have made a lasting impression on me. Mercan Dede, with his music and ideas. My friend Demet Akbağ, who received an award at the Cannes Film Festival when Nuri Bilge Ceylan’s film Winter Sleep won the Palme d’Or. And the pianist Fazil Say is another Turkish artist whose talent has gone beyond the borders of the country. It is priceless to come across his concerts in Istanbul.

@chez_bo12

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