Raffles 1887
The winter migration in Rajasthan
Each year, from late summer on, the skies over Rajasthan fill with the cacophonous sounds and extraordinary purpose of migrating birds, seeking safe havens for winter among the north Indian region's lakes and protected wetland sites. RAFFLES 1887 went birdwatching in Udaipur, ideally located for this thrilling spectacle
EVERY year, from late summer through autumn, millions of waterbirds, shorebirds and raptors leave their breeding grounds in the northern hemisphere and head south to Rajasthan where they take part in one of nature’s most dazzling spectaculars: the winter migration.
Their journey is a long one, over many thousands of miles down a vast corridor known as the Central Asian Flyway. Not only do migratory birds face man-made threats – pollution, development, illegal hunting – they must also cope with natural obstacles such as thunderstorms, predation and disease. But on they go, over plateaux, across rivers and through high mountain passes. One species, the intrepid bar-headed goose (pictured), literally flies right over the top of the Himalayas, reaching dizzying heights of more than 7,000 m (23,000 ft).
The tribulations of the Himalayas behind them, many birds end their journey in Rajasthan in northern India. The state offers a wide array of lakes, ponds and wetlands as well as a high degree of protection under the stringently enforced Wildlife Protection Act. India is also a signatory to the Ramsar Convention of Wetlands of International Importance and currently hosts 27 Ramsar wetland sites, four of which are in Rajasthan.
There is nothing low-key about the birds’ arrival. As the sun rises, flashes of pink, white, orange and black start to appear on the horizon as flamingos, pelicans (pictured), storks and egrets begin their final descent. Then, as the morning mist rises, thousands more birds hove into view, some in perfect V-shape formation, gracefully gliding, circling and swooping above the glistening lakes and wetlands that will be their home for the next six months. The cheerful honking of geese and blaring calls of cranes mix with the quacking of ducks and the shrill cries of gulls to create a crazy, cacophonous wall of sound that is somehow both stirring and hypnotic.
Known as the City of Lakes, Udaipur is an ideal base for witnessing the migration – there are said to be at least 400 bird species within 100km of the city during the winter months. A favourite spot with birdwatchers is Udai Sagar, 13km east of Udaipur. This peaceful man-made lake (pictured) offers the relatively shallow, reed-filled edges and mudflats that waterbirds require, as well as nearby agricultural fields suitable for shorebirds and raptors.
What you can expect to see varies from year to year but larger waterbirds are likely to include the aforementioned bar-headed geese, great cormorants, grey and purple herons, great, intermediate and little egrets (pictured below), Eurasian spoonbills and glossy ibis. Among the waders birdwatchers will likely tick off black-winged stilts, common redshanks, wood and common sandpipers and little ringed plovers. The surrounding farmland, meanwhile, supports migratory raptors such as black kites, western marsh harriers and occasionally a greater spotted or imperial eagle.
Also particularly worth visiting in the area is Fateh Sagar Lake which hosts many winter migratory birds, including northern shovellers, yellow wagtails and black-winged stilts (pictured). However if your goal is to see as many migratory waterfowl gathered together as possible, then Menar Wetlands, a Ramsar site 45km from Udaipur, is the place to go.
Covering an area of 104 hectares, Menar is made up of three interconnected ponds and seasonal monsoon-flooded agricultural fields. The area, which is vigorously protected by the local community, is home to around 250 bird species, 100 of which are migratory. Here you will see elegant flamingos, their soft pink feathers glowing in the sunlight as they wade through the shallows; graceful painted storks standing tall on long legs; and white pelicans (pictured below) skimming across the surface of the water before landing with a showy splash. Ducks, herons, spoonbills and cormorants also gather in groups around the lakes, creating a rich variety of shapes, sizes and colours.
One of the attractions of the winter migration is the sheer number of different species present which means there is always something new to see, even for the most practised of birdwatchers. But for most visitors it’s the sheer spectacle of the event, the thrill of discovery and the connection to nature. Plus, of course, if you miss it one year, there’s always the next.
RAMSAR SITES IN RAJASTHAN
📸Menar Wetland, Udaipur – famous for its community-led conservation and protection of migratory birds.
📸Keoladeo National Park, Bharatpur – renowned artificial wetland and bird sanctuary, designated a Ramsar site in 1981.
📸Sambhar Salt Lake, Jaipur – India’s largest inland saline wetland and the winter habitat of thousands of flamingos and waterfowl.
📸Khichan Wetland, Phalodi – best known for its plethora of migratory demoiselle cranes.
Raffles Udaipur is set on Lake Udai Sagar. Your Raffles Butler will be happy to organise birdwatching trips for you.
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