Raffles 1887
Lourse Warszawa was founded by Swiss confectioner Laurent Lourse in 1873, modelled on Parisian patisseries. It was the talk of Warsaw, soon becoming a favourite gathering place for high society and the intellectual elite. Men and women from the scientific, literary, artistic, political and industrial worlds – including Fryderyk Chopin, Maria Skłodowska-Curie, Henryk Sienkiewicz, Bolesław Prus, Ludwik Solski and Józef Piłsudski – came for delicious coffee and sophisticated desserts. Today Lourse Patisserie is housed within Raffles Europejski Warsaw, its classical white ivory and brass décor a beautiful reminder of days gone by.
YOU’VE BEEN A PASTRY CHEF FOR TWO DECADES. WHAT ATTRACTED YOU TO YOUR CRAFT?
I come from a small village near Brittany called Laval. Both of my grandmothers excelled at cooking, using the freshest ingredients sourced directly from local farms, and I found the aromas and flavours that they created truly inspiring, laying the foundations for my future endeavours. After gaining some experience as a pastry chef in France, it became clear to me that I needed to explore the world and challenge myself in a broader context.
This led me to London, where I arrived with no knowledge of English and little financial means. After several years in the kitchens of Gordon Ramsay at The Connaught and at Nobu London, I had the opportunity to relocate to Dubai. My career then took me to the Maldives and Qatar, where I worked in 5-star properties, before joining Raffles Europejski Warsaw. I am profoundly honoured to be leading the pastry initiatives at Lourse.
WHAT MAKES LOURSE SO SPECIAL?
Lourse has a legendary reputation and is a great favourite with both locals and tourists who come to enjoy our exquisite pastries, and my objective is always to strive for excellence. My first year here has been both fascinating and challenging. I have made significant changes to the menu, with the exception of the signature ‘must try’ desserts, such as the Honey Cake (Miodownik) and the Lourse Signature Cake (Autorskie Ciastko) made with walnut, plum and chocolate.
HAVE TASTES IN PATISSERIE CHANGED OVER THE DECADES?
My international experiences and exposure to diverse pastry styles and creations have led me to believe that classic techniques will always serve as a reference in the field. However, the rise of social media has elevated pastry to new heights, democratising this art form and compelling professionals to innovate and create continuously. From the outset, I have been particularly attentive to the use of sugar in my work. It is crucial to minimise sugar content to provide desserts that are both sweet and healthy, while also prioritising the incorporation of genuine natural flavours.
CHRISTMAS IS A SPECIAL TIME IN WARSAW. HOW DO YOU MARK THE OCCASION AT LOURSE?
At the beginning of December we decorate Lourse with rose gold baubles and spruce branches, then we infuse it with festive flavours. I’m particularly proud of the Winter Dome, which features a blend of plum pâte, ginger and orange cream, and pain d'épices, all elegantly glazed with high quality chocolate. This dessert resonates with me as it harmoniously combines some beloved Polish flavours with traditional French Christmas dessert elements. In celebration of the festive season, and recognising the Polish love of ice cream, I am pleased to introduce two new flavours: Candy Cane and Mulled Wine.
CHOPIN WAS ONCE ONE OF LOURSE’S MOST ENTHUSIASTIC CUSTOMERS. IF HE WERE HERE TODAY, WHAT WOULD YOU HAVE HIM TRY?
Apart from sharing the same first name, I feel several affinities with Frédéric Chopin. His favourite restaurant, Au Rocher de Cancale, is still going in Paris, and we both share a fondness for gingerbread. Given Chopin's appreciation for culinary delights and his refined palate, I would have been delighted for him to sample my latest creation, ‘Rocher’, which consists of orange compote layered between gingerbread and enveloped in a 70% cocoa chocolate ganache.